kitchen rap

Although the groundhogs suggested an early Spring, the weather forecasters sometimes disagree. Even when the sun is shining, the wind may whip around you, forcing you to bundle up against the cold. A warm bowl of soup is always a welcome treat on a cold February day, and in this month's issue of Kitchen Rap Kathleen Sloan shares some of her favourite comfort foods. We also continue our review of some kitchen basics, focusing on whisk and mixing spoons.

• in the spotlight… which whisk is which?
• in this corner… wood spoons and more
• Kathleen Sloan's comfort foods
• from Kathleen's recipe box… fonduta
• from Kathleen's recipe box… braised lamb shanks with oven-roasted parsnips
• from Kathleen's recipe box… creamed sherried mushrooms on toast
• from Golda's recipe box… banana bread
• publishing and subscription information

which whisk is which?

Is it our imagination, or has there been a proliferation of new styles of whisks during the past year? It can be difficult to know which whisk to choose for a particular purpose. So, here's a helpful guide to the different styles of whisks and their preferred uses.

Whisks are the tools of choice for incorporating air into ingredients and for blending sauces. Each calls for a different design - a light and flexible whisk for whipping egg whites or cream, and a stiffer whisk for blending sauces - which serves to explain why there are so many different styles available. Most whisks have stainless steel wires, but some whisks are also available with non-scratching nylon "wires" or silicone-coated stainless steel wires for use in non-stick pans. The handles may be made of stainless steel, copper, or wood, and may have either a flat-bottomed handle (these stand up nicely in a utensil jar) or a ring for hanging your whisk.

	Balloon whisks are made for incorporating air into mixtures, and they have flexible wires and a wide, bulbous shape so as to increase the whisk's contact area and thereby speed up the whipping process. Generally speaking, longer whisks and those with more wires tend to be the most flexible, and they will incorporate more air in a shorter time into egg whites and cream.
	Round whisks are a modern variation on the balloon whisk. Instead of relying on the flexibility of the "balloon" for incorporating the air, the wires have a firmer, round shape which works well for whipping egg whites and cream.
	Another variation of the balloon whisk incorporates a round wire cage containing a stainless steel or ceramic ball within the "balloon." This even further increases the whisk's contact area, and thus the speed of the whipping process.
	Sauce whisks (also known as French whisks) are made for mixing and blending. They have a slender, more elongated design than balloon whisks, and the wires are generally firmer. They can be used in a mixing bowl to incorporate ingredients into a batter, in a saucepan to blend the perfect sauce, or in a beaker, jug, or pitcher to emulsify salad dressings and mayonnaise. Smaller-sized sauce whisks are excellent for use in small containers, such as for blending marinades or mixing fruit into yogurt.
	Several variations of the sauce whisk have been created. Triangular whisks have a flat base which allow them to easily scrape the bottom of a saucepan, and a sharper edge to reach into the corners of the pan.
	Ball whisks look like a sauce whisk with the loops cut off, tipped with stainless steel balls. Batters don't get caught in the center of the whisk, making these whisks a breeze to clean. They are also excellent for blending ingredients in a narrow-mouthed pitcher, as the narrow design allows the whisk to fit where a balloon whisk won't.
	Flat whisks are made specifically to incorporate flour into melted butter in the making of a roux, or for producing a flavourful gravy or deglazing a pan. The flat wires are designed to stay in contact with the bottom of the pan and still reach into all of the corners. Flat whisks are also useful for folding ingredients into batters.
	Coil whisks are used for eggs and light batters. The flat, coiled head stays in contact with the surface of the pan when making a roux or gravy. Avoid using a coil whisk in thick mixtures, as it will become clogged.

Finally, although not strictly-speaking a whisk, for those who have a nostalgic bent there is the classic egg beater, which can be used in place of a whisk when beating eggs, cream, and light batters. Which, of course, leads us to the electric hand mixer, and then to the stand mixer….

While we're on the subject of mixing tools, let's spend a few moments discussing wood spoons. Always an excellent choice for mixing heavy batters (such as cookie dough), these inexpensive tools are also safe for use at high temperatures and in non-stick pans. To avoid splitting or warping, do not soak wood spoons in water or place them in the dishwasher. Spoons made from hardwoods (such as beech, cherry, olive, or boxwood) should last a lifetime.

beechwood spoons 10" $2.15 info 11", round bowl $2.70 info 12" $2.70 info 12" with hole $3.05 info 14" $2.90 info 16" $3.05 info 18" $3.75 info	cherrywood spoons     10" $4.25 info 12" $5.00 info 14" $6.00 info	olivewood spoons     10" $8.75 info 12" $10.75 info 14" $11.75 info

The disadvantage of a wood spoon is that, since wood is porous, it absorbs the flavours and odours of foods, and may stain. An excellent alternative are mixing spoons and spatulas made of Exoglass, a composite material which, unlike wood, is non-porous. Exoglass is also not heat-conductive, and is safe to use in non-stick pans and at temperatures up to 430°F. The mixing spatulas have a rounded, paddle-like end which is flat, so it can be easily scraped clean against the side of a bowl.

Exoglass mixing spoons 12" $9.00 info 15" $12.50 info 18" $17.00 info	Exoglass mixing spatulas 10" $6.25 info 12" $6.75 info 14" $8.25 info 16" $12.00 info

No one disputes the goodness and importance of comfort and joy during the month of December when holiday spirits run high. However, I think it is during the month of February -- perhaps the cruelest of months -- when we really need and crave comfort, spiritual and physical. Unsurprisingly, this is the month when most of us book a week in a sunnier, hotter clime, to bury our toes in warm sand and feel a little of the sun's rays on our wintry limbs.

If running off to Jamaica is not a viable option, there are other closer-to-home comforts just waiting to be applied, all of which are good for what ails you.

This is the time of year when comfort foods really come into their own. Certainly the definition of a comfort food varies from person to person -- what is sauce for the goose may not necessarily work well for the gander. A good friend of mine receives great comfort in the pairing of a good cup of tea enjoyed with a crisp McIntosh apple. Always struck me as rather odd but it works for him! Another I know heads for her family home to indulge in her Mom's homemade perogies, filled with finely chopped mushrooms or potato and cheddar with lashings of sour cream.

As a Canadian with Irish roots, potatoes -- in absolutely any form whatsoever -- head my list of foods from which I derive the most comfort. Remember Heartburn, the great little book by Nora Ephron (later a movie with Meryl Streep and Jack Nicholson)? When the heroine was at her lowest ebb, her most depressed, sad-sack state, she whipped up a batch of mashed potatoes, took the bowl to bed and enjoyed each forkful sided with a shard of ice-cold butter -- now that's comfort with a capital C.

While we're on the subject of mashed spuds, here's a little-known tip that my Mum (still the finest cook I've known) taught me. My daughters tell me my mashed potatoes are the best (well, they would, wouldn't they?) and I think this is one of the reasons. When your potatoes are ready to be mashed, drain them well, then return them to the stove. Turn the heat right off or as low as possible. (Or just use the residual heat left in the burner, if your stove is electric.) Shake the pot of drained potatoes over the heat a few times to help thoroughly remove any remaining moisture from the pot and the potatoes. Then, when completely dry, mash them with a good old-fashioned potato masher, adding as much butter as your conscience will allow and a little full milk (or cream!). Following this, use a fork or flat whisk to whiz a little air into them which also gives them a lighter, fluffier quality.

So, what else comforts us? Beef bourguigon, a fat little roasted chicken with a savoury cornbread stuffing, a really good homemade burger crowned with excellent cheese and bacon, toasted ripe tomato sandwiches with good salt and white pepper or, another personal childhood favourite -- Yorkshire pudding served with beef gravy -- oh yeah.

Just about anything in the way of Italian food comforts me; warm bread dipped into peppery Sicilian olive oil (and if you haven't tried oil from Sicily, get out there and find it), sheets of silky prosciutto, linguine carbonara…you get the picture.

So herewith a trio of recipes that continue to provide me with comfort year in, year out. Untouched by fad or trend, by flights of fancy or whim, they are consistently comforting from beginning to end -- and that includes their anticipation and preparation -- and they're a lot cheaper than a week in Mo Bay.

Until next month, cook and eat with love --

Kathleen Sloan

Kathleen Sloan is a Toronto-born food writer whose work has appeared in majorCanadian newspapers and magazines. Author of four cookbooks -- Rustic Italian Cooking, The Global Grill, The Sticks & Stones Cookbook (with Ted Reader) and The Wine Lover Cooks (with Tony Aspler) -- she lives with her beau and their black lab and assorted children who come and go, in Niagara wine country.

fonduta

Melted cheese with toasted bread might sound a somewhat pedestrian affair, but not when the cheese in question is Italy's renowned fontina, whose sweet, nutty taste and pungent aroma is often described as reminiscent of Piedmont's magical white truffles. Fonduta is Italy's version of Alpine fondue, but with the addition of butter, milk and egg yolks. Serve this as you would a Swiss-style fondue with chunks of bread or pour it over baked polenta or slices of thick-cut toast topped with slices of ripe tomato.

Wine of choice -- choose a wine from the north of Italy for this dish, a Barbera or a Nebbiolo

1. In a bowl, combine diced fontina and milk. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
2. In the top of a double-boiler placed over hot (but not boiling) water, melt the butter. Take the bowl of milk and fontina and pour half of the milk into a smaller bowl; set aside. Add remaining milk and cheese to the melted butter. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 10 minutes or until the cheese is smooth and completely melted.
3. Beat reserved milk into egg yolks. Stir into melted cheese; cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until thickened, smooth and creamy.

Serving suggestion: Place toasted bread or thick slices of polenta in shallow soup plates. Pour the fonduta over bread, sprinkle with white pepper and a little truffle oil, if desired.

Serves 4

braised lamb shanks with oven-roasted parsnips

Serve these ultra-comforting lamb shanks with the aforementioned mashed potatoes. I think the humble lamb shank provides as much flavour and taste appeal as any upscale lamb cut.

Wine of choice -- choose a Spanish Tempranillo for this dish

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180C).
2. Wipe lamb shanks with paper towels. In a plastic bag, combine flour, salt, pepper and herbes de Provence. Place lamb shanks (one at a time if they are very large) in the bag and shake to coat well. Shake off excess flour and set to one side.
3. In a Dutch oven or cast-iron pan, warm 1/3 cup (75 mL) oil. Brown lamb shanks, then transfer to large earthenware casserole or other ovenproof dish with a lid. Add onions, celery, carrots, garlic and bouquet garni to the pan and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
4. Add wine and beef stock to the pan and bring to the boil for a few minutes, scraping up any bits on the bottom of the pan. Pour this mixture over the lamb shanks. Cover and place in the oven for 1-1/2 hours or until meat is tender.
5. Slice parsnips lengthwise into equal-sized strips. Toss them in the remaining oil and a little salt and pepper. Place them in the oven and roast them until they are softened and golden brown, about 45 minutes.

Serving suggestion: Sprinkle lamb and parsnips with parsley and serve with mashed potatoes.

Serves 6

creamed sherried mushrooms on toast

A brilliant, classic combination, this dish has the earthiness of mushrooms infused with the nuttiness of sherry mellowed by cream. Make it even more elegant by serving the mushroom mixture in warm puff pastry shells.

Wine of choice -- serve with a quality Oloroso sherry

1. Place mushrooms in a colander and squeeze lemon juice over them. Leave to drain for 10 minutes or so.
2. Preheat oven to 400°F (200C). Trim the crusts from the bread. In a large skillet, heat the oil and fry the bread until golden brown and crisp on both sides. Transfer to baking sheet and set aside.
3. In the same skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Saute the shallot and garlic until softened, about 5 minutes; do not brown. Add mushrooms to the pan, stir to blend, and season with salt and pepper. Add sherry, increase the heat and cook for 10-12 minutes until half the liquid is absorbed.
4. When reduced, add cream and cook, covered, for another 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning, then distribute mushrooms evenly atop the reserved toast slices. Brown in the hot oven for 8-10 minutes and serve immediately.

Serves 4 - 6

banana bread

Ok, so maybe this isn't as fancy as fonduta or creamed sherried mushrooms, but banana bread is a comforting snack any time of the day, especially when eaten warm straight from the oven (you do know you're supposed to let it cool, right?).

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9" × 5" loaf pan.
2. Mix together the dry ingredients. Add the shortening, mashed bananas, and eggs, and mix until combined.
3. Spread the batter in the loaf pan. Bake for 55 - 60 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the bread comes out clean. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.